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Cairo Overview
Cairo, which Egyptians proudly call the ‘Mother of All Cities’, spreads along the banks of the River Nile for 40km (25 miles) north to south, the largest metropolis in Africa. Travelers through the ages have been both fascinated and repelled by Cairo. Visitors are intrigued by its twisting streets, medieval buildings, oriental bazaars and Islamic architecture of carved domes and sculpted minarets, while being appalled by its dirt, pollution, noise, crowds and constant demands for baksheesh (gratuities). Paying baksheesh is the local custom, however, so expect to give little advertisement
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and often. Culture shock is part of the experience of Cairo and can at times be wearing. But as is written in the ancient tales of the 1001 Nights, ‘He who hath not seen Cairo, hath not seen the world’.

Cairo is a disorienting place but most of the city lies on the east bank of the River Nile. Visitors often feel most comfortable finding their feet in the Westernised downtown district of central Cairo around Midan Tahrir (Liberation Square). This is a public transport hub, separated from the Nile by the massive Nile Hilton Hotel. Here too is the city center’s main attraction, the Egyptian Museum. Opposite downtown is the Nile island of Gezira, with the island of Roda just to the south. The Pyramids of Giza, however, are on the west bank of the river, some 18km (11 miles) from the center. Old Cairo lies south of central Cairo, while Islamic Cairo encompasses a large area to the east. The city is growing rapidly, both in terms of population and geographical area, with new suburbs expanding on its outskirts, especially into the Eastern Desert. Northwest of the city center, near the airport, Heliopolis is home to many of Cairo’s wealthy (and the Presidential Palace), while to the west, the middle-class suburb of Giza has expanded to within sight of the Pyramids.

Although Cairo today is Egypt’s capital and largest city, teeming with some 18 million people, its position of prominence in the long timeline of Egyptian history is relatively recent. It did not even exist when the pyramids at Giza were constructed. Then, the town of Memphis, 24km (15 miles) to the south, was the Pharaonic capital. Cairo was not founded until the Romans rebuilt an old Persian fortress along the Nile in AD116, which was known as Babylon-in-Egypt, in today’s Old Cairo district.

From the latter ninth century, a succession of Arab rulers made their mark on the city: Ibn Tulun built his royal city el-Qatai, the Fatimids built the walled city of el-Qahira, from which Cairo takes it name. In the 13th century, the Mamluks, a caste of Turkish soldier-slaves, rose to power, then the Ottomans, the French under Napoleon and finally the British ruled in their turn. The birth of modern Cairo came in 1863, when the ruler Ismail expanded the city along the Nile in the style of the great European cities. After the country returned to Egyptian rule in 1952, Cairo rose to the forefront as the capital of the Arab world.

Cairo is also called the ‘City of 1000 Minarets’ and it is the exotic skyline of graceful domes and towering minarets that casts a spell of magic over the grinding reality of the metropolis. Most visitors come to see the great Pyramids of Giza, the treasures of Tutankhamun’s tomb and other wonders in the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, as well as to shop in the sprawling Khan al-Khalili marketplace. There are also dozens of mosques, Coptic churches, smaller museums and winding streets to explore. This tourism is Egypt’s key source of foreign income, while the public sector, including government and social services and the military, makes up the largest ‘industry’. The city is also the center of a growing trade, finance and insurance sector.

During the summer, temperatures in Cairo can climb to 38 degrees Celsius, though the low humidity is some consolation. The best time to visit is between October and April. Occasional downpours occur in January and February, while during March and April the khamseen, a strong, hot, dry wind, blows in periodically from the desert.

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Dubbed the Mother of the World, Cairo has been the largest city in Africa and the Middle East for most of the last millennium. Its population, now estimated at 20 million, continues to swell, and the city gobbles up more farmland and desert every year to accommodate the growth.

During rush hour in Tahrir Square, nothing moves but car horns. Once the gridlock breaks, a smoke-spewing bus jammed with riders overtakes a donkey-drawn vegetable cart, a bicycle beats out a stalled Mercedes and two taxis collide. Women clasp each other's hands to cross the street, gracefully slipping their bodies between passing cars with a hair's breadth to spare.

The amount of green space per resident is said to be smaller than a child's palm. Breathing the city's air pollution is like smoking two packs of cigarettes a day. Despite the despair and madness of Cairo, foreigners have flocked here since the dawn of leisure travel. Travelers are seduced by the romance of Egypt's pyramids and desert, which evoke a feeling of eternity few can deny.

Cairo has a timeless quality most travelers relish. There's perhaps no better example than Khan el-Khalili, the city's 600-year-old bazaar. Goldsmiths, woodworkers, and tentmakers in the Khan carry on crafts passed down since medieval times.

Shades of wealth and modernity exist in Cairo. You'll see working women wearing chic Chanel headscarves to match their gold and black pantsuits, and hotels as grand as anything in Manhattan. But once you leave the faint glimmer of downtown Cairo and venture into its labyrinthine neighborhoods, you'll wonder where time has gone.

Life in Cairo revolves around family and religion. Almost without exception, children remain with their families until marriage. About 90 percent of Egypt's population is Muslim; the rest are mainly Christian. Reflections of Islam are everywhere: in Egyptian speech and dress, on the radio and television, and with the unforgettable call to prayer that bellows from the city's mosques five times a day.

Cairo is really a jigsaw puzzle of the past, and each district tells a different chapter in Egypt's history, from the pharaonic dynasties to the 20th-century British occupation. The area was first settled some 2,500 years ago, when Persians put a fortress called Egypt-in-Babylon near what is now known as Old Cairo.

Old Cairo maintains some of the world's oldest Christian churches, as Egypt was among the first nations to embrace the faith. Saint Mark the Apostle began preaching to Egyptians in A.D. 35, although the Roman Empire didn't accept Christianity until the 4th century. The Coptic Christians living in Old Cairo today descend from these early worshipers.

Cairo's Muslim roots go back to A.D.640, when the Arab general Amr led 3,500 horsemen into Egypt under the banner of Islam. The army founded Fustat, "City of the Tent," near the old fortress at Babylon. For the next thousand years, a succession of dynasties ruled over Egypt as part of the Islamic Empire. Cairo got its modern name when the Fatimids seized control in A.D.969. Three of the 60 original gates to this walled city, El Qahira, still stand today.

Orienting yourself in Cairo requires patience. Streets aren't always marked and Egyptians are notorious for creative directions. Most of the city lies to the Nile's east. On the Nile itself are two islands. The northern island is Gezira, whose northern half is called Zamalek; to the south is Roda Island. Just east of the river is Tahrir Square, the hub of downtown Cairo. Garden City, where many embassies are located, is adjacent to Tahrir Square.

To Tahrir's northeast are Ramsis train station and el-Azhar bus station. Residential neighborhoods to the north are Shubra, Abbasiyya, and Heliopolis. South of Tahrir is Sayida Zeinab, or Islamic Cairo, and south of that is Old Cairo, also known as the Coptic Quarter. Even further south is the upper-class Maadi

Cairo Overview
Cairo, which Egyptians proudly call the ‘Mother of All Cities’, spreads along the banks of the River Nile for 40km (25 miles) north to south, the largest metropolis in Africa. Travelers through the ages have been both fascinated and repelled by Cairo. Visitors are intrigued by its twisting streets, medieval buildings, oriental bazaars and Islamic architecture of carved domes and sculpted minarets, while being appalled by its dirt, pollution, noise, crowds and constant demands for baksheesh (gratuities). Paying baksheesh is the local custom, however, so expect to give little advertisement
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